California requires all motorcycles to carry insurance just like a car would have to do. Rates for motorcycle insurance vary widely depending on a number of factors.

Type of Motorcycle

The type of motorcycle you drive has a big impact on insurance rates. A more powerful machine will cost as much as 10 times more to insure as a basic model or moped. In addition, a standard motorcycle insurance policy will not cover aftermarket parts or custom built bikes, so special coverage (at an additional cost) will be needed.

Helmet

LawsBecause wearing a helmet lowers the risk of death in a motorcycle accident, states with helmet laws have lower insurance rates than those that do not. California does have a law requiring all riders including passengers to wear a helmet that meets safety standards.

Full vs. Liability-only Coverage

Similar to cars, motorcycles must carry minimum liability insurance; in fact, the minimums for motorcycles in California are the same as those for cars. Carrying physical damage coverage is not required by the state, but is likely required by the lien holder if the motorcycle is financed. Lien holders want to know that they can recoup their money in the event of damage or loss.
If you own the motorcycle outright, you should consider the impact it would have if your bike were totaled. If you don’t depend on it to get you around, you may not need to replace it if an accident were to occur. Alternatively, you may have enough money saved to replace it on your own without help from the insurance company. In these situations, you don’t need to carry collision and comprehensive coverage, which will lower your insurance cost significantly.
Belonging to a motorcycle club can get you a discount on insurance.


Choosing a Deductible 

If you feel strongly about wanting to repair or replace the motorcycle, however, full coverage may be your only choice. In this case, choosing a lower deductible will mean less out of pocket cost, but a higher premium. A higher deductible will lower your premium; just be sure you can pay the deductible amount out of pocket if you need to.

​
Discounts

The discounts available for motorcycle insurance are similar to those for auto insurance. Having a safe driving record, good credit rating, taking a safety course, and belonging to a motorcycle club or association are all good ways to save.
Get a motorcycle insurance quote from Casablanca Insurance to protect yourself from liability and loss while riding your two-wheeled vehicle.




The information in this article was obtained from various sources. This content is offered for educational purposes only and does not represent contractual agreements, nor is it intended to replace manuals or instructions provided by the manufacturer or the advice of a qualified professional. The definitions, terms and coverage in a given policy may be different than those suggested here and such policy will be governed by the language contained therein. No warranty or appropriateness for a specific purpose is expressed or implied.

Specific Car Seat Safety Items to Review

• For an infant carrier, make sure the handle is down while the car is in motion.
• How to appropriately install the seat at the best angle
• Some seats have an indicator to help you identify the best angle.
• The best angle is usually between 45 and 30 degrees.
• The harness straps must be at or below shoulder level.
• The retainer clip should be at armpit level.
• the child should fit snugly in the seat when buckled in.
• If the child needs added support, tuck in small, rolled-up towels on each side. Do not place them under the belts or the infant’s head.
• The harness should rest flat. Once you tighten the harness, if you can pinch the straps at the shoulder, it’s not fastened correctly.

Few children use the recommended child passenger restraints. Understanding the reasons for the sub-optimal child passenger restraint practices identified in this study is essential for the development of effective programs to reduce or eliminate preventable motor vehicle collision–related injuries.

Types of Car Seats for Kids
Infants & Toddlers Rear-facing only, Rear-facing Convertible:
All infants and toddlers should ride in a rear-facing seat until they are at least2 years of age or reach the highest weight or heigt allowed by their car seat manufacturer
Toddlers & Preschoolers Convertible, Forward-facing with harness:
Children who have outgrown the rear-facing weight or height limit for their convertible seat should use a forward-facing seat with a harness for as long as possible, up to the heighest weight or heigt allowed by their car safety seat manufacturer.
School-Aged Children Booster Seats:
All children whose weight or height exceeds the forward-facing limit for their car safety seat should use a belt-positioning booster seat until the vehicle seat belt fits properly, typically when they have reached 4 feet 9 inches in height and are 8 through 12 years of age. All children younger than 13 should ride in the back seat.
Older Children Seat Belts:
When children are old enough and large enough for the vehicle seat belt to fit them correctly, they should always use lap and shoulder seat belts for the best protection. All children younger than 13 years should ride in the back seat.

Child Seat Safety
Did you know…
Studies conducted in 2007, 2008, and 2009 found that only 3% of children between the ages of 1 and 3 who were restrained in a car seat were properly positioned?
About 73% of car child restrains aren’t used or installed correctly. In one year, more than 618,000 up to the age of 12 rode in cars with out sitting in a child/booster seat or using their seat belts at least some of the time.

Why is This Important?
Because using a restraint saved 303 children ages 4 and younger in 2010!
Even if you’ve researched car seats and chosen the best one, do you know how to safely transport your child in the car?

Proper installation is key.
It is important to place infant seats in the back seat and make sure they’re rear-facing and should be installed using either the seat belt or LATCH system.

Seat Belt – Check the vehicle owner’s manual to see if you need a locking clip to lock the belt in position. You mght have to extend the seat belt and let it retract to make sure it’s tight.

LATCH System – Most passenger cars manufactured since September 2002 come with the LATCH system. Anchors are in the back seat where cushions meet, and tether anchors are behind the seat. Use the attachments on your car seat to fasten the LATCH anchors. Check your vehicle owner’s manual to find weight limits for anchors and tethers.
It is important to ensure that the seat can’t be moved more than an inch from front-to-back or side-to side. Read your vehicle and car seat manuals for complete installation instructions.

Additional Resources:
Child Car Seat Rules Mostly Ignored, Study Finds
Child Passenger Safety Practices in the U.S.
Safe Kids Worldwide: Child Passenger Safety
Car Seats: Information for Families
Not At Fault? Here’s How The Insurance Claims Process Will Work
Insurance Institute for Highway Safety: Keeping Children Safe In and Around Cars

Insurance in most cases is the second biggest expense people have, and because the initial steps in getting car insurance at a good price can be so frustrating, most people tend to ignore it once they have it. That could be costing them considerable sums of money each year.
While it's easy to mistake auto insurance as something that's a relatively fixed cost, it's not. It can be lowered -- often easily -- to help you save money, the Insurance Information Institute says. Your savings will vary greatly depending on your driving record, vehicle and location, but it could add up to hundreds of dollars per year.

  Generally, when someone decides on a deductible amount for car insurance, he or she sticks with it. But increasing the amount you pay for fender benders is the best place to look when trying to lower your annual out-of-pocket expenses, according to the Insurance Information Institute.
Admittedly, it's a gamble. A car wreck will cost you more this way, but if you and everyone else on your car insurance policy have a history of safe driving, it's a way to save money. And if the threat of a big deductible payment worries you, put the money aside. Use your annual savings as an auto emergency fund so you'll never be caught by surprise.

Joining a car pool has benefits beyond helping the environment. If you carpool with three other people, with each driving one-week shifts, you can cut the miles you drive by up to 75 percent. And the less you drive, the more you save on car insurance.
"Most companies track mileage," says Art Scott, a retired insurance agent who worked for State Farm for 30 years. "Anything under 7,500 miles is considered the pleasure rate -- and that's the lowest. Up to about 13,000 miles is a medium rate, and anything over that is a higher rate."
The amount you save will vary depending on several factors, but J. Robert Hunter, insurance director for the Consumer Federation of America, says the difference could be as much as 25 percent.

The car insurance you need when your car is brand new is often considerably different than what you need later on. Initial rates are generally higher, since you're required to get both comprehensive and collision coverage if you took out a car loan to pay for the vehicle. Comprehensive pays for the repair or replacement of your car from damage that doesn't result from an accident, and collision covers damages if you're in a wreck.
Once it's paid off, most people forget to save money by exploring their car insurance options. Check the value of your car through the Kelley Blue Book or NADAguides.com. You might have more collision insurance than you need. And in some cases, it might be worth dropping it entirely, especially if your car is an older model.
"It's often smart to drop collision on older vehicles," says Mike Barry, spokesman for the Insurance Information Institute. "Comprehensive is so inexpensive, and you're giving up a coverage you might need -- that's worth hanging on to, though."
Among the reasons you might need comprehensive coverage: damage from storms, vandalism and theft.

If you've got your car insurance through a different company than you did your homeowners insurance or renters insurance, you may be paying more than you should. It's called "multilining" in the industry. It means that by combining policies with a single company, you can stack discounts and save money.
Car insurance is the biggest risk for policy writers. You're more likely to get in an accident or have your car stolen than to have something catastrophic happen to your house. By combining policies, you lower some of the insurance company's risk.
"Multiline is where they make their money, rather than just picking up a loser like auto insurance," says Scott. "The more lines (of insurance that insurance companies) can get, the more they're willing to give discounts for it."

If you know you're a careful driver, you might save money with a new car insurance policy from Progressive Casualty Insurance Co. called MyRate. A small wireless device is attached to your car, letting the company monitor your driving habits, including distance, most frequent travel times and driving habits, such as sudden stops or speeding.
After the first year, you could save as much as 60 percent, according to Progressive. But you will be sacrificing some privacy for the savings. And in some states, such as New Jersey, if the company doesn't like your driving habits, it could raise your rate by up to 9 percent.
Concerns about the device's intrusive nature have slowed the rollout of MyRate in several states. In Pennsylvania, Progressive ultimately withdrew its filing to introduce the coverage, says Melissa Fox, deputy press secretary for the Pennsylvania Insurance Department.

Other insurance companies offer similar devices that track your mileage. Allied insurance offers 10 to 15% discount on your auto policy premium if you agree to install a device that tracks your mileage or if you agree to report your mileage whenever you service your auto such as oil change or smog check.

Lot of insurance companies offer profession or affinity discount based on your profession.
For example Nationwide insurance (Allied Insurance) offer up to 15% discount off your auto insurance premium if you are an Engineer, Scientist, Police Officer, Firefighter, Attorney, Registered Nurse, Doctor, Teacher, Pilot .... Make sure you ask your agent if there are any discounts based on your profession.

Due to lack of driving experience and risk-taking behaviors, young drivers’ car insurance premiums are among the highest insurance rates. Teenagers are also the most likely to be involved in accidents, with 16-year-old drivers over 2.5 times more likely to be in a crash than 20- to 24-year-old. Racking up tickets or accidents can quickly drive up your teen’s insurance costs with higher rates, classifying them in a high risk auto insurance group.
Your teen driver can lower his car insurance rate by:

• Maintaining good grades for a Good Student discount
• Completing a driver’s education course
• Paying a higher deductible
• Driving a sensible vehicle (a sedan vs. a sports car)

Steps you can take to lower your teen driver’s car insurance rate:

• Ask about multiple vehicle auto insurance discounts
• Check into multiple policy insurance discounts if you have the same home and auto carrier
• Ask if you can include your teen driver on your policy as an “occasional” or “pleasure-use only” driver

Graduated Driver Licensing (GDL)To lower the teen drivers’ death rate, all states have enacted Graduated Driver Licensing (GDL) laws that phase-in driving privileges upon successful completion of specific Graduated Driver Licensing program requirements. GDL programs allow teen drivers to safely gain driving capability before earning full driving privileges. A complete chart of requirements for all states can be found here.
In California, persons under age 18 must be accompanied by a parent/guardian or other person specified by law when:

• Driving between the hours of 11:00 PM and 5:00 AM for the first twelve months
• Transporting passengers under 20 years of age, at any time for the first twelve months.

How to apply for a provisional permitTo apply for a provisional permit, you must be at least 15 ½, but under 18 years of age.
Here are what you need to apply for the permit:
Driver Education and Driver Training Form RequirementsIf you are 15 ½ to 17 ½ years of age, you must provide a:

• Certificate of Completion of Driver Education OR
• Certificate of Completion of Driver Education and Driver Training OR
• Certificate of Enrollment In An Integrated (Classroom) Driver Education And Driver Training Program.

If you are over 17 ½ but under 18 years of age, you may get your permit without the driver education and driver training certificates however, you will not be able to take the driving test until you turn 18.
A parent, guardian, spouse or adult 25 years of age or older, who has a valid California driver license, must be with you when you drive. He or she must sit in a position close enough to take control of the vehicle, if necessary. It is illegal for you to drive alone at any time.
Before being eligible to take your driving test you must:

• Be 16 years old AND
• Have held your permit for a minimum of six months AND
• Have completed driver education AND
• Have completed 6 hours of professional driver training AND
• Have completed 50 hours of practice with an adult 25 years or older. The adult must have a valid California driver license and certify to the 50 hours of practice. At least 10 of the 50 hours must have been done at night

Do I need to add my teen driver with a learners permit to my insurance policy?That depends on your state’s insurance requirements, but in most cases, your policy will cover your teen driver until he or she is licensed.
While many states don’t require liability insurance coverage for teens who have a learners permit, all states, with the exception of New Hampshire, require various types of auto insurance coverage for licensed drivers—and it’s a good idea to adequately protect yourself with full coverage insurance.

Contact us today for a free car insurance quote, we'll show you all your options and how you can save.

Anyone who’s ever taken their car into the local dealership for major repairs that weren’t covered by the manufacturer’s warranty may have been brought to tears when the service writer announced what the parts and labor would cost. That’s why so many people seek out an independent mechanic to do the work in hopes of getting a better shake when it’s time to pay up.
However, you should be cautious when shopping for a new mechanic to take care of your four-wheeled pride and joy. While there are plenty of professional, trustworthy mechanics in your area who will treat you and your car right, the trick is finding one who won’t gouge you with a smile after creating more problems than you started out with because the repairs were above his pay grade.

Because today’s cars have become highly-complicated machines that require specialized equipment to complete necessary repairs – and most of us have no clue whether we need this or that fixed – we’re forced to take the word of a so-called expert with grease on his elbows.
Below are just a few of the ways to make sure you’re not taken for a financial ride or risk having your vehicle ruined:

1. Start by getting recommendations Ask people whose opinion you value where they take their car for service. This is generally the best way to find a good and inexpensive mechanic.
   
2. Look for certifications and licenses on display                                                                                                              A reputable mechanic will proudly display ASE (National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence) or AAA (American Automobile Association) certifications on his wall. This lets his customers know he has the expertise and training to work on their vehicle. A state license, which is required in many states, should also be visible.
3. The garage clean and organized                                                                                                                                              If the place is dirty and messy with rags and other debris all over the floor, you may be disappointed with the repairs or how your vehicle is treated.
4. Know what you’re getting in writing                                                                                          Before you agree to have any work done on your vehicle, you should receive a written estimate of the repairs. It should be included on an itemized invoice. If you hear: “we don’t know what’s wrong – how can we give you an estimate?” you should reconsider your choice.
   
5. Don’t fall for the transmission, power steering, or fuel injector flush                                 Many of the quickie lube joints use this tactic to make well-over what they charge an unwitting customer for an oil and lube job. If your new mechanic starts off with this recommendation, grab your car keys and leave immediately. Newer cars don’t need this service unless you drive a ridiculous amount of miles annually.
6. Beware of cheap brake jobs                                                                                                                                                        A cheap brake job usually means the use of cheap parts and pads. Request the mechanic use OEM (original equipment) parts or equivalent.  They may cost a few bucks more, but they’ll also last longer and keep you safer.
7. Be sure the shop has the latest engine diagnostic equipment                                                      In order to properly diagnose an engine problem or isolate the cause of your engine light coming on, your mechanic requires the latest equipment. If he tries to convince you he doesn’t need any special “gizmos” to do his job, it’s doubtful he’ll be able to diagnose the problem correctly except through guesswork.
8. Get a second opinion before replacing your catalytic converter Some vehicles have two catalytic converters and replacing only one is expensive enough – much less two. Before you agree to have the catalytic converter on your vehicle swapped out by a shop you’re not familiar with, get a second opinion. You may find out there’s nothing wrong with it and save yourself some money.
   In the end, trust your gut feeling in choosing a mechanic. If something doesn’t feel right, stick with your local dealership until you find the right shop for you.
   

​From qualifying for a mortgage to closing on my new home.
Owning a home is supposed to be part of the American Dream, but the buying process can seem more like a nightmare at times. As my husband and I prepared to buy our first home last year, I was shocked by how little I knew about it and how few definitive answers I could find online. As I bumbled through the process, learning on the fly, I developed a new understanding of the saying, “You don’t know what you don’t know.”

Setting Up for Success Before You Begin
Before I started the process, I researched meticulously — or I tried to, at least. I looked into traditional and Federal Housing Authority (FHA)–backed mortgages, finding out the down payment amount and minimum credit score we’d need for each program.


My husband and I made sure our credit scores were above 580, the minimum for the FHA program that we hoped to use. We paid down credit cards in order to make our debt-to-income ratio more appealing to lenders. As soon as we met the minimum requirements, we made an appointment with the bank — and we were sorely disappointed.
First, we learned that many individual banks have their own requirements on top of the regulations that the FHA put in place. In our case, the federal program required a score of 580, but the bank and mortgage agency that we spoke with required minimum scores of 600 and 620, which can be a significant difference when you’re working hard to repair credit.
We also learned that underwriters want to see that your deposit and closing costs have been in your account for at least two months, to track where the funds have come from and to confirm your ongoing financial stability. This was a hindrance to an impatient buyer like me.

The Home or the Mortgage: Which Came First?
When we began meeting with real estate agents, they always asked if we had approached a lender. When we met with lenders, their first question was always whether we had a property in mind. This left us totally confused.
So what’s the right plan? “Potential homebuyers should always meet with a lender before they start their home search,” says Peter Jennings, a lender with Merrimack Mortgage in New Hampshire who has worked in the industry for more than 30 years. This helps you decide which mortgage program is best for you. Mortgages are originated either by mortgage brokers or traditional banks. Because the industry is so heavily regulated, it doesn’t really matter who you choose for your mortgage — the qualifications will be largely the same, Jennings says. However, small banks are likely to offer fewer mortgage options, while larger lenders usually offer more.
When you’re ready to buy a home, you can strengthen your offer with either a pre-qualification or a pre-approval letter from your lender. A pre-qualification, where a loan officer reviews the applicant to make sure that they meet the minimum requirements, is the most common, Jennings says. If your income and credit qualifications are well above the minimum range and your employment history is steady, many lenders will feel comfortable providing a pre-qualification letter. “In the industry it’s known as a slam-dunk borrower,” Jennings says.
However, if your application is on the cusp of qualifying because of credit or income issues, you may choose pre-approval. “The file is actually formally approved subject to the borrower finding a home,” Jennings says. “I do these on occasion when I don’t feel comfortable signing off on a pre-qualification letter.” Although a pre-approval takes longer up front, it can actually cut time between your offer being accepted and closing, because much of the review is already done.

Read More: How to Save for a House and Tackle Your Debt

Finding an Agent
Once you know that you qualify for a mortgage, it’s time to start shopping. At first my husband and I searched on our own, reaching out to listing agents on properties we were interested in. But once we realized that a buyer’s agent is actually paid for by the seller when a home is sold, without any out-of-pocket expenses to the buyer, we got an agent immediately.
Not realizing that there is no out-of-pocket expense for a buyer’s agent is common, says Liz Murphy, an agent with Berkshire, Hathaway, Fox and Roach Realtors in Jenkintown, Pennsylvania. “Usually the conversation goes faster once the buyer realizes they don’t pay the buyer’s agent,” she says. “The home-buying process is so daunting, and then you’re thinking, ‘I have to pay this person too.’”
Real estate agents streamline the process by finding properties that may not be listed online and helping buyers navigate regulations and laws. When our buying process was interrupted by unexpected hiccups, including an issue with the home’s title, our agent explained to us exactly what was happening and advised us on what to do.
Emotional support is no small part of a buyer’s agent’s job, Murphy says. “You want someone who can work with you through the ups and downs, and carry you emotionally through the process.”

Read More: How Much Should I Spend on a House?

Making an Offer
Once you find a home you like, your agent should help you to put together an offer that will be formalized in the purchase and sales agreement, a binding contract between you and the seller.
Consider how aggressive you want to be in negotiations and how competitive the market is (after all, until your offer has been accepted, the seller can take other offers). If you’re hoping to conserve cash, then consider making a stipulation that the seller contribute to closing costs — the amount varies depending on the type of mortgage and down payment amount, but can range from 3 to 9 percent of the sale price.
Also decide whether you want your offer to be subject to the home passing inspection, and what type of inspection. A traditional home inspection covers any flaws in the property so that you know exactly what you’re getting into. You can also include a pest inspection, radon testing, and a bunch of other options.
I was prepared for an endless back-and-forth with the seller (maybe I watch too much TV), but our negotiation was short. We made an offer, the seller countered, and our agent advised us to come back with our “best and final” offer to let the seller know that we were done negotiating. They accepted.

Read More: A Glossary of Basic Mortgage Terms: From Escrow to Title

Meanwhile, at the Mortgage Office
Next comes the waiting. Typically it takes about 35 days from when your offer is accepted to when you can close on the house, although it could be longer, according to Neena Vlamis, president and co-founder of A&N Mortgage Services in Chicago. The wait can seem arbitrary and feel frustrating, but things are happening the whole time behind the scenes.
After your offer is accepted, the application enters the Attorney Review Period, Vlamis says. This is when the buyer does due diligence by getting an inspection and making any requests for repairs or closing cost credits. “This is the time to make sure this is the property you thought it was,” Vlamis adds.
After that, it’s time for the buyer to take a back seat and let the mortgage agent do their job. “Validation is the No. 1 process that’s happening during that time period,” says Vlamis. “It’s very important.” During the time that your application is in review, the lender is making sure that all the documentation you’ve provided, from tax returns to pay stubs, is truthful and accurate.
Because the mortgage industry is so heavily regulated, the bank takes many steps to make sure that the information it has received from the buyer is correct. The bank sends the tax transcripts to the IRS to make sure that they match what the IRS has on file. It also confirms employment information and pay before sending the application to underwriting, where everything is confirmed again, in greater detail.
This is also when the lender will appraise the house to make sure that the value of the property matches or exceeds the sales price. If you go with a federally backed FHA mortgage, the appraisal must be done by an FHA-certified appraiser.
During this time, you probably have more money in your account than you’ve ever had, but it’s extremely important not to make any financial changes during the time that your application is in review. Credit and employment are confirmed again at the end of the application process just before the financial commitment is made, and it’s crucial that there are no major changes, which could delay the process or jeopardize your chances of being approved. “Don’t switch banks, make big purchases, or change jobs,” Vlamis says. If you do, you could compromise your debt-to-income ratio, which lenders use to determine the likelihood that you’ll be able to make on-time payments. (During this time, my husband and I mostly stuck to the necessities — paying bills and shopping for groceries.)

Preparing to Close
Once everything has been approved by the bank, buyers will receive a financial commitment letter. “That is saying that you have the ‘all clear’ for your financing,” Vlamis says. “Everyone, start packing.”
However, the waiting often continues — with about a week between the financial commitment dates and your closing. “That time allows the preparation of your closing package, you to do final walk-through, cashier’s checks to to be ordered, or a wire organized for closing costs, the deed to be prepared, etc,” says Vlamis.
When it finally is time to close, you’ll likely be able to breathe easy. You will sign a massive stack of papers, exchange checks and keys, and be on your way as a new homeowner.

Insurance
Minimum Fire insurance is required for any home purchase, the lender wants to make sure their investment is protected prior to funding the loan. Casablanca Insurance work with a large variety of insurance carriers and lenders, we know the process and we can help making the purchase of your home as simple and quick as possible.
Click here to request your free home insurance quote!

Los accidentes de auto pueden provocarnos grandes consecuencias de salud y hasta económicas. Ya que si no cuentas con un seguro tendrás que romper tu cochinito o utilizar el guardadito que tenías debajo del colchón para pagar los daños. Lo más recomendable es contar con un seguro de auto que se haga responsable de todos los daños que pudieras llegar a ocasionar, si chocas.
Pero de todos modos, no está de más mantenerte alerta y saber cómo puedes evitar un accidente.
1.- ¡No te distraigas! Es importante tener la mirada bien fijada al camino. Evita comer, utilizar tu cel y andar de chismoso con las personas que ves pasar por calle.
2.- ¡No son carreras! Recuerda que eres una persona común y corriente que va manejando por la ciudad, no un corredor de la serie Nascar. Así que maneja con calma.
3.- Si estás borracho, no manejes. Si vas a salir de fiesta no manejes, mejor lleva a un conductor asignado o resignado.
4. ¡Alto! Has vivido equivocado toda tu vida, si piensas que la luz amarilla en el semáforo significa que tienes que acelerar más para alcanzar a cruzar, no es así, la luz amarilla actúa como preventiva, es decir te avisa que está por ponerse la luz roja y por lo tanto debes de frenar.
5.- Cambio de carril. Si eres un poco hiperactivo y te gusta pasar de un carril a otro, ten mucho cuidado. Cada que decidas cambiar de carril hazlo con precaución.
6.- No manejes en sentido contrario.
7.- ¡No te pegues tanto! Mantén una distancia considerable con el coche de adelante.
8.-  ¡No te pongas loco! Controla tu carácter, aunque te hagan enojar otros conductores, créenos nada se solucionará si le das cerrones.